Circa mid-late 20th century PATEL tribal CHOLI (backless blouse) made from numerous cottons and polycotton base fabrics, heavily embroidered in multi-circular patterns using herringbone stitch, HOORMUTCH (interlacing) stitch seen in Megwar tribal communities as well as buttonhole stitch, on a base of coarse black cotton on the front and coarse red cotton for sleeves. Fantastic graphic design predominantly in yellow with virtually the entire base fabric covered in embroidery. Also green, red, purple, white, pink and orange. Plain inserts under arms. Fluro yellow and blue binding. This choli would be used for special events/festivals. This looks like a choli that has been remade from older embroidered fabrics to recycle them. Quite roughly machine sewn together and there are no fastenings.
Patels represent a large section of the population of Gujarat state in India. The term patel itself meaning 'village headman'. Gujarati Patels were historically landowners and farmers and traditionally vegetarians.
I purchased this Patel choli from a third generation textile buyer and trader in Bhuj, Gujarat. His village was past the dump and abbatoir and consisted of little cement houses busy with women at the well collecting water and children playing. Every small room of his house was filled to the ceiling with piles of more than 7000 separate textiles. I chose 25 pieces from his collection including this bright and densely embroidered choli.
